The Serpentine Lake Loop is the best-known canoe route in Kawartha Highlands, and it earns the reputation. Over four days you paddle a quiet chain of Shield lakes, tackle the park’s longest portage, and camp in the pristine southeastern backcountry. It’s close to the city, often easier to book than Algonquin, and wild enough to get away. This guide covers the whole loop: the route, the portages, where to camp, how to book, and what to expect on the water.
The loop starts and ends at Anstruther Lake, working north through Rathbun and North Rathbun, crosses the big portage to Serpentine, then comes back down through Anderson and Copper. It’s a true loop, so you finish where you started without having to double-back on travelled water.
At a glance
| Park | Kawartha Highlands |
|---|---|
| Access point | Anstruther Lake, access point 5 |
| Route type | Loop |
| Longest portage | 1480, North Rathbun to Serpentine |
| Booking type | Site-specific reservation through Ontario Parks |
| Permit required | Yes, Ontario Parks interior permit via ontarioparks.ca |
| Parking | Ontario Parks lot at the access point; one vehicle included with your permit, extra vehicles pay a daily fee. Paid parking also at Anstruther Lake Marina, about 2 km away. |
| Drive from Toronto | About 2 to 2.5 hours |
| Drive from Barrie | About 2.5 hours |
Route overview
The Serpentine Lake Loop sits in the southeast corner of Kawartha Highlands Provincial Park, the second-largest park in southern Ontario. You launch on Anstruther Lake, a big cottage lake, and climb north into quieter water: Rathbun, then North Rathbun. From there the trip’s one hard portage carries you over to Serpentine, an island-dotted lake that many paddlers call the highlight. You drop down through Anderson to Copper, the prettiest lake on the loop, then come back to Anstruther through a short channel and a couple of easy carries.
It’s a moderate route. The paddling is calm and mostly sheltered once you’re off Anstruther, and none of the lakes are big enough to be dangerous in wind, except Anstruther itself. What makes the loop work is the portaging. The 1,480 m carry to Serpentine is long, and the trails throughout are rockier and steeper than the distances suggest.
People who’ve done both often pick Kawartha Highlands over Algonquin for a trip like this. It’s closer to Toronto, the drive avoids the worst of the cottage-country traffic, and the sites are far easier to book. It’s one of several Kawartha Highlands canoe routes we cover, and you get the same Shield scenery as Algonquin with less of the traffic in many cases.
Day-by-day Serpentine Lake Loop breakdown
Day 1: Anstruther Lake to North Rathbun Lake
The push into the park. A big open crossing on Anstruther, two short portages, and a quiet first night set up right under the big carry.
7.9km paddle 360m portage
Day 1 is about 7.9 km of paddling with two short carries. You start with a 3.5 km paddle north up Anstruther, the biggest open water on the trip. It’s a cottage lake, so you’ll pass docks and boats, and you’ll feel the wind. Anstruther runs north to south and funnels the west wind, so plan to cross early in the day when it’s calm; a lot of groups end up tacking across it by mid-morning.
At the north end, the first portage climbs 190 m into Rathbun Lake. It’s short but steep, and it runs beside a cascading waterfall where Rathbun spills down into Anstruther. You’ll usually find cottager canoes stashed at the Rathbun end. Paddle 2.9 km up Rathbun, then take the easy 170 m portage into North Rathbun. A short 1.5 km paddle brings you to camp. North Rathbun feels a good deal more remote than the water below it.
North Rathbun is the ideal first night. The sites are open rock that catch a breeze, and camping here means you wake up right at the foot of the big portage and can take it on fresh. Book a site toward the north end, near the portage take-out, so you’re not paddling far before the climb.
Day 2: North Rathbun Lake to Anderson Lake
The big day. A quick paddle, then the 1,480 m climb to Serpentine, and one more carry to a quiet camp on Anderson.
3.3km paddle 2,090m portage
This is the day the loop is built around. There’s only 3.3 km of paddling, but 2,090 m of it is on your shoulders. A short paddle across the top of North Rathbun brings you to the 1,480 m portage to Serpentine. This is the one that earns the route its reputation. It’s long, with real elevation gain, and then a stark drop down to Serpentine at the far end. The footing is rocky and uneven the whole way. We double-carried it with three stops to rest, and the smart move is to take your time; the hazard here isn’t the distance, it’s slipping or rolling an ankle on the rock and the elevation changes. Go slow, watch your feet, and keep your loads balanced.
The reward is Serpentine Lake, an island-scattered lake that many paddlers rate as the nicest on the loop. Paddle 2.6 km across it to the 610 m portage into Anderson. That carry is shorter, but it’s more rocky up-and-down, and it lands harder than it should because you’re already tired from the big one. A last short paddle brings you onto Anderson.
Anderson is a small, quiet lake with only one other site, so it has a real backcountry feel. It’s a fine place to camp, with one caveat worth knowing: the 610 m portage lands you here at the end of a long day, after the big one, and that last carry is tiring. If you’d rather trade quiet for scenery, book a Serpentine island site instead.
Running the loop this way, clockwise, puts the 1,480 m carry on the morning of Day 2 while your energy is fresh, but keep in mind, your food is also at its heaviest.
Day 3: Anderson Lake to Copper Lake
The short, scenic day, with one catch: the shallow, swampy run between Anderson and Copper when the water is low.
3.2km paddle 0m portage
Day 3 is the easy one on paper: about 3.2 km of paddling and no portages. The catch is the water between Anderson and Copper. When levels are low, this stretch turns shallow and swampy. We paddled it in an unusually dry spring and had to wade through a swampy section, then push the loaded canoe through other shallow, weedy patches to get across. In a normal or high-water year it’s a simple paddle, so it’s worth checking recent conditions if you’re going in a dry spell, whatever the season.
We stayed at the far south-western end of Copper Lake. If you camp more central to the lake your paddle will be even shorter. This is your day to have a late morning, take your time on the paddle, and enjoy your time on the beautiful Copper Lake. It’s the most scenic lake on the loop, with clean rock shoreline and good swimming.
Day 4: Copper Lake back to Anstruther Lake
The way home. Three short portages, Copper Lake Falls right along the trail, then the long paddle down Anstruther to the car.
8.1km paddle 730m portage
The last day is the longest paddle, about 8.1 km, with three short carries totalling 730 m. From Copper you paddle 2.4 km to the 350 m portage toward Rathbun. Copper Lake Falls sits right along this trail, so you carry straight past them; it’s worth setting the canoe down for a few minutes to take them in. Back on the water, a short 1.2 km paddle through the channel brings you to a 190 m carry onto Rathbun. Paddle 1 km down Rathbun, then take the final 190 m portage, the same steep falls carry from Day 1, back down to Anstruther.
From there it’s a 3.5 km paddle to the car. The wind on Anstruther is the last thing between you and the parking lot, and a headwind on the home stretch is a tired way to finish, so get an early start and cross while the lake is still calm.
Portage breakdown for the Serpentine Lake Loop
There are six portages on the loop, and you carry over one of them in both directions, so the loop totals 3,180 m over seven carries. The distances are honest, but they undersell the effort; this is Shield country, and the trails climb over rock. The 1,480 m carry to Serpentine is the one that defines the trip, with real elevation and rough footing. Take your time on it.
| Portage | Distance | Difficulty | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Anstruther to Rathbun | 190 m | Moderate | Short but steep, climbing beside a cascading waterfall. Carried in both directions. Cottager canoes stashed at the Rathbun end. |
| Rathbun to North Rathbun | 170 m | Easy | Short and straightforward. While still elevated, this is the easiest carry on the loop. |
| North Rathbun to Serpentine | 1,480 m | Hard | The big one. Real elevation gain, then a stark drop to Serpentine. Rocky, uneven footing throughout; most groups double-carry it. Take it slow and watch your step. Community reports put it at roughly 1,400 to 1,500 m. |
| Serpentine to Anderson | 610 m | Moderate | Rocky up-and-down. Not long, but it lands hard at the end of the big portage day. |
| Copper toward Rathbun | 350 m | Moderate | Copper Lake Falls sits right along the trail; worth a pause on the way through. |
| Channel to Rathbun | 190 m | Easy | Short but steep; drops you back onto Rathbun for the paddle out. |
Where to camp on the Serpentine Lake Loop
Every campsite in Kawartha Highlands Provincial Park comes with a fire ring, a picnic table, and a box privy, and most have at least three tent pads. The important difference from Algonquin is that you book the exact site, not the lake. You can plan your nights around the best lakes on the loop and reserve specific sites in advance rather than racing for whatever is open on arrival.
These recommendations are based on my recent trip in May 2026. We planned the trip over four days and three nights with a leisure day on Day 3. If you wanted to tackle this route in 2 nights it is certainly doable.
Night 1: North Rathbun Lake
North Rathbun is the ideal first night, and not only because it’s quiet. Camping here puts you at the foot of the 1,480 m portage, so you can wake up and take on the big carry first thing, fresh. The lake sits a step removed from the cottage traffic on Anstruther and Rathbun below it, so it feels properly in the backcountry even though it’s only two short portages in. The sites are open Shield rock that catch a breeze, which helps with bugs but offers less shelter in wind. Book one toward the north end, close to the portage take-out, so you’re not paddling far before the climb.
Night 2: Serpentine or Anderson Lake
Serpentine is the showpiece of the loop, a winding, rocky, island-scattered lake that wouldn’t look out of place in a Group of Seven canvas, and its island sites are the ones people remember. Paddlers who’ve camped the islands often rate them the best sites of the whole trip, with clean swimming straight off the rock, good trees for a hammock, and open sky for stargazing. The trade-off is small: the higher, more treed island sites can be cool in the morning, and they’re the first to book. If you want the view, reserve Serpentine early.
Anderson, where we stayed, is the opposite kind of night. It’s small and quiet, with only one other site on the whole lake, so you get real solitude and a strong backcountry feel. The catch is the arrival; you reach Anderson at the end of the big portage day, and the 610 m carry in lands hard after the 1,480 m earlier. Camp here if you’d rather trade the island scenery for quiet, and to be positioned for an early run at the shallow stretch to Copper.
Night 3: Copper Lake
Copper is the scenic finish, and paddlers who’ve done most of the park’s routes often call it the prettiest lake in Kawartha Highlands. It has the most sites of any lake on the loop, so you can afford to be choosy, and the swimming off the rock is some of the best on the trip. We camped on the southwestern side, set on its own in a large bay with open views down the lake and no neighbours in sight; we heard wolves on two of our three nights out here, which is the kind of thing you remember. Aim for a rock point or an open bay with afternoon sun, and note that Copper Lake Falls is close by, right along tomorrow’s portage out. One thing to watch on the way in: beaver activity keeps the water between Anderson and Copper shallow, and there’s often a small lift-over near Copper, more so when levels are low.
Picking the Best Backcountry Site
On this loop, the best sites are open rock points and bays with a breeze and a clean view; the southwestern bays on Copper are a good example. Since you book by site number, look at the map when you reserve and favour points over sites tucked into marshy corners, which are buggier and damper. Read our full guide to picking the perfect backcountry campsite →
The launch point: Anstruther Lake access point 5
Anstruther Lake is a big cottage lake, about 6 km long and 3 km wide, with roughly 230 cottages and one full-service marina. Access point 5 sits at the end of Anstruther Lake Road, off Highway 28 just south of Apsley, and it’s the gateway to the Serpentine loop. There’s no outfitter on the dock the way there is at Canoe Lake, but you’ve got good options nearby for boats, parking, and last-minute supplies.
| Parking | The Ontario Parks lot at the access point holds a couple of dozen cars and can fill on busy summer weekends, so arrive early. One vehicle is included with your camping permit; extra vehicles pay a daily fee, priced by trip length. |
|---|---|
| Canoe & kayak rentals | No outfitter on the dock. Anstruther Lake Marina, about 2 km back down the road, rents tandem canoes and solo kayaks and sells roof-rack kits; it doesn’t deliver to other access points. Kawartha Adventure Rentals, off Highway 28, has the largest local fleet and delivers to the Anstruther access point for a fee. |
| Marina parking | If you’re renting from the marina, or the provincial lot is full, Anstruther Lake Marina has paid overnight parking about 2 km from the launch. Paddlers often find it works out a little cheaper than the provincial permit. |
| Maps | Buy the Kawartha Highlands park map at the marina store (about $10 plus tax) or from the park office in Bancroft. It marks every portage and campsite, and it’s worth having on the water. |
| Permit pickup | You need an Ontario Parks interior camping permit. Print it at home, keep a screenshot on your phone, or pick it up at the park office in Bancroft. Instructions for your vehicle permit are posted at the access point. |
| Nearest town | Apsley, about 10 km away, has a gas station, an LCBO, and a restaurant on Highway 28. It’s your last stop for supplies before the turnoff. |
| Location | End of Anstruther Lake Road, south of Apsley off Highway 28. Official park page → |
Planning tips for the Serpentine Lake Loop
Take the big portage slow
The 1,480 m carry to Serpentine is the crux of the trip, and the risk on it is footing, not distance. It climbs, then drops sharply to Serpentine, over rock the whole way. Double-carry it if that’s your system, rest when you need to, and keep your loads balanced so you’re not fighting the canoe on the uneven sections. A rolled ankle two portages deep is the thing you’re trying to avoid.
Choose your direction before you go
Clockwise, the way this guide runs, puts the big portage on Day 2 while you’re fresh. Counter-clockwise saves it for the back half of the trip when your pack is lighter but you may be more tired. Decide based on your group.
Watch the water between Anderson and Copper
This stretch is the first on the loop to go shallow, and it isn’t only a late-season issue; a dry spring does it too. If conditions are low, plan to wade the swampy section and push the canoe through weeds, and add time to Day 3. In higher water it’s a clean paddle.
Be careful where you collect water
There’s a lot of beaver activity on this loop, and plenty of swampy shoreline. When you top up, draw your water away from swamps and beaver lodges, and read the direction of the flow so you’re collecting from the cleaner, moving side rather than a stagnant back bay. Treat or filter everything, as always.
Book the standout sites early
Because Kawartha is site-specific, the best sites are yours to lock in ahead of time. The Serpentine island sites and the open bays on Copper are the ones to target, and they go first for summer weekends.
Planning more time out here? Browse the rest of our Kawartha Highlands canoe trips for other routes and access points, or see every route in one place on our Ontario canoe routes page.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need to book campsites for the Serpentine Lake Loop?
Yes. Kawartha Highlands is site-specific, so you reserve exact numbered sites through Ontario Parks, up to five months ahead. Summer weekends and the Serpentine island sites book up fast, so reserve early or watch for cancellations.
How hard is the Serpentine Lake Loop?
Moderate overall, with one hard portage. The 1,480 m carry from North Rathbun to Serpentine has real elevation gain and a steep drop at the far end, all over rocky, uneven ground, and most groups double-carry it. The other portages are short. The difficulty is in the footing and the climbing on that one carry, not in the paddling, which is calm and mostly sheltered.
How long is the Serpentine Lake Loop?
The loop is about 22.5 km of paddling with 3,180 m of portaging over seven carries. Some groups can paddle it in two or three days, but three nights gives you time to enjoy Copper Lake and the swimming.
Where do you park for the Serpentine Lake Loop?
You launch from Anstruther Lake access point 5, at the end of Anstruther Lake Road south of Apsley on Highway 28. There’s an Ontario Parks lot at the access point, and paid overnight parking at Anstruther Lake Marina about 2 km away, which paddlers often find a little cheaper.
Can you rent a canoe on Anstruther Lake?
Yes. Anstruther Lake Marina, about 2 km from the access point, rents tandem canoes and solo kayaks but doesn’t deliver. Kawartha Adventure Rentals off Highway 28 has a larger fleet and will deliver a canoe right to the Anstruther access point for a fee.
When is the best time to paddle the Serpentine Lake Loop?
Late spring and early fall are the sweet spots. Spring brings higher water and quieter sites, while late September and October offer cool nights, no bugs, and fall colour. Avoid a dry late summer if you can, since the Anderson-to-Copper stretch is the first to get too shallow to paddle.
Are there bears or wolves on the Serpentine Lake Loop?
Wolves range through this area; we heard them on two of our three nights near Copper Lake. Black bears are present too. Hang or barrel your food, keep a clean camp, and collect drinking water away from swamps and beaver lodges to stay on the safe side.
Is the water low between Anderson and Copper Lake?
It can be, and not only late in the season; a dry spring lowers it too. When levels are down, expect to wade the swampy section and push or line the canoe through shallow, weedy patches. In a normal or high-water year it’s a straightforward paddle, so check recent conditions before your trip.
